Caccaccollo Crafts
Posted by Kirsty
June 28, 2009
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Wending our way through the Sacred Valley from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, our guide made a stop at a local mountain community that was working with GAP – the men went off to carry crazy amounts of supplies along the Inca Trail, while the women stayed in the village to produce textiles, which GAP would bring their hikers to marvel over and possibly buy. The village of Caccaccollo is halfway up a mountain, connected to the world by a winding dirt track (that has become a road since GAP’s involvement). The women here raise the alpacas, spin and dye their wool and then make fabulous clothes, wall hangings, and toys, which are displayed in the village’s square. When I say ‘village square’, don’t be getting quaint notions of an English village green with a clock tower in the middle and well-kept herbaceous borders. This village square was a dirt area onto which several shacks faced, with alpacas tethered at various points and pre-school age children making mud pies. The women stood and sat at one end, spinning the yarn and exhibiting their wares.
The women of Caccaccollo spin the shorn alpaca wool into yarn using traditional drop spindles, making their work both portable and social. Noticing a child wandering out of eye range, one of the women handed her spindle to her neighbour and went to retrieve the little boy, plonking him down by the wool and taking up her spinning again. They chatted with our guide in Quechuan about their work.
There was a little hut to the side of the square for dying the yarns. The Caccaccollons (I’m not sure if this is the term, but it works for now!) use all natural dyes – plants gathered from the surrounding area and the cochineal beetle provide a whole range of colours; greens, yellows, reds, and purply greys. On its first use, the dye creates a rich, deep colour; the dye water is used repeatedly to achieve various shades. Ever conscious of water shortage, once the dye water can dye no longer, the water is recycled for cooking, washing, and feeding the animals.
The quality of the textiles was amazing and each piece was a little bit different. I really regret not having enough Sol on me to buy a wall hanging, especially as my husband, who hates wall hangings (”Rugs go on the floor, Kirsty, not on the wall” – silly boy!), was impressed enough to want one. It’s not like this is somewhere I can just pop back to, either…
2 comments Categories: adventure, craft
June 30th, 2009 at 5:14 pm
Wow, that is amazing! I really liked reading about craft-travel!
July 1st, 2009 at 9:34 am
It was amazing seeing real people make yarn that I buy from a shop in London!